Islay, often referred to as the 'Queen of the Hebrides,' boasts a rich, well-documented history dating back to the first century AD. Nestled beneath Scotland's expansive skies and amidst breathtaking landscapes, it beckons nature enthusiasts, bird lovers and aficionados of fine whisky. This Island has undergone numerous transformations over the years, encompassing shifts in culture and scenery, and stands as a significant contributor to the British economy. Spanning approximately 620 square kilometres, Islay ranks as the fifth-largest Scottish island out of over 700, making it the eighth-largest island within the British Isles. Surprisingly, its population is a modest 3,000 souls. From early hunter-gatherer societies around 10,000 BC, through the closing chapter of the Ice Age and into the Mesolithic Period, Islay’s storied past has allowed scholars to examine artefacts and architecture from prehistoric to modern eras. It was also the historical seat of the Lords of the Isles at Finlaggan, a clan that held sway over much of the Highlands and Islands. The capital, Bowmore, is home to the first licensed Islay distillery, founded in 1779, renowned for its production of Islay Malts.
Whisky is savoured and cherished in diverse ways: alone or in the company of friends, with or without water or on ice, whether it's Scotch, Indian, or Bourbon, whether it's aged to perfection or relatively young. Just as Bordeaux is celebrated for its wine and Guanajuato for its Tequila, Islay is renowned for its peaty nectar—whisky. It has firmly established its reputation as 'The Whisky Isle' and is home to nine distilleries among Scotland's 145 active ones, with two more poised to join the whisky-making scene
this year. Over the past two decades, I've relished whisky across continents, countries, and cultures. However, savouring a whisky in its raw form in Islay, directly from the cask in the Distillery Warehouse, offers an entirely distinctive experience. My Islay whisky trail lasted 5 days and across 9 distilleries, interspersed with pairings, Islay Meals and nature walks.
The Trail started at Ardbeg, which was established in 1815 and owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy. Ardbeg produces a heavily peated Islay whisky, emphasising aromas and spices, including sweeter tones like chocolate and vanilla. During the 1980s and 1990s, Ardbeg suffered from an uncertain future and its doors closed in 1981 for several years. Although they re-opened later that decade, Ardbeg shut down again in 1996. The brand was purchased by The Glenmorangie Company in 1997 which saved the Distillery from extinction. In 2000, The Ardbeg Committee was formed to ensure that the doors of Ardbeg would never close again. This dedicated following of global fans now comprises 180k members in over 130 countries. In 2021 work was completed on a multi-million pound investment in a new still house, doubling production capacity. The new Ardbeg range displays innovation while effectively preserving the legacy of a renowned distillery in a contemporary whisky style. The visitor centre and bistro also underwent renovation, and the Distillery introduced a new Ardstream food truck for tourists and locals alike during the pandemic which was a huge success. The trailer sells Burgers, steaks, sausages, warm salads, cookies at price points between BP 6-22. I had a delightful experience, holding warm bread and savoring delicious cookies. Furthermore, this refurbished American trailer also offers customers the chance to prepare pizza using a custom-made wood-burning pizza oven.
Post Ardbeg, I decided to walk across to Laphroaig, the peat monster. Laphroaig, founded in 1815 by brothers Alex and Donald Johnston, represents one of the most esteemed Single Malt production systems. It’s a substantial distillery known for recreating historic whiskies with phenolic and peaty notes. From the maltings and peat to the towering stills and the smoky ambiance, it maintains a connection to its rich heritage while staying in vogue. As a member of the Kildalton triumvirate, Laphroaig is quintessentially an Islay flagship with a global fan base.
Evening was spent at The Machrie, a Spa & Golf Resort, where I was staying. My experience at The Machrie was defined by a sense of luxury and relaxation. While enjoying dinner, I had the chance to sample a range of choices, such as Port Askaig Crab Cake, Whipped Goat Cheese, and Islay scallops as appetizers. For the main course, I indulged in Maple Glazed Pork Belly and the Fillet of Scottish Salmon, concluding the meal with a delightful Passion Fruit Cheesecake. In summary, the cuisine elevated the evening, creating a remarkable and unforgettable dining experience for me.
Continuing on my Islay Whisky Trail, early morning saw me at Bowmore, for a breakfast over whiskies. Later post tasting, I paired Pork sausages, cheese & breads, freshwater lobster dressed in a creamy dressing with Bowmore 15 Y and a special, Distillery edition. The experience was exhilarating as I looked over the distillery with an ecstatic view of the Atlantic. Bowmore, renowned for its typical Islay Whisky, was founded in 1779 by John P. Simpson. The distillery is a blend of tradition and innovation, crafting both old and contemporary whiskies, including a highly prized aged variant. The process involves steeping malts, distribution on chariots, mashing, and fermentation, creating the smoky peat flavour distinctive to Bowmore Whisky. Changes in the distillery in the last 3 years – Stills, Warehouse, Mash, Grains, etc. The auction of the Black Bowmore Cabinet saw all proceeds donated to the Islay Development Initiative who worked on various projects on the island including rural employability, upskilling and initial scoping into a housing project. Bowmore Onyx was auctioned and donated to the Youth Action Fund through the Distillers One of One Auction. Bowmore ARC 52 Mokume has been auctioned, with the proceeds pledged to Islay – not yet dedicated to a specific project. Bowmore STAC 55 Years Old sold at auction with proceeds donated to the Youth Action Fund through the Distillers One of One Auction. See more detail on charities through the link below. Condensed info can read: “Over £1,500,000 has been raised for charities across four unique ‘one of one’ lots, with donations pledged to the Youth Action Fund through The Distillers’ Charity, and Islay community projects administered locally.”
As a passionate traveller with a keen eye for detail, I’m grateful to have experienced the abundant wildlife, unique traditions, and local culture of this small yet significant island. During my exploration, I re-discovered the ‘Islay Wave,’ a charming local custom that involves waving at anyone crossing the bridge on Islay. This simple gesture of acknowledgement provided me with a sense of warmth and comfort, embodying the fundamental principles of humanity that this region upholds. The local community is welcoming and actively engages in social activities, imbuing their lives with vitality. Notably, the employment rate here is remarkable, with less than 1% of the population unemployed. Even the elderly continue to work daily, contributing to agriculture, fishing, distilling, and the tourism industry. Recent trends indicate that young residents leave the island in their early twenties for career opportunities but often return in their late twenties, resulting in a gradual slow-ageing of the population.
Back to the Whisky Trail, early afternoon was at Lagavulin, whose name means “hollow by the mill” in Gaelic, is one of the oldest distilleries, known for some of Scotland’s most famous whiskies, including special editions like the 12-year-old and 21-year-old. The 16-year-old Single Malt is celebrated for being one of the world’s smokiest whiskies. It employs the double distillation method to produce a consistent malt, aging in a combination of bourbon barrels and sherry casks that add sweetness to the whisky.
A late afternoon lunch was an absolute pleasure and needed, comprising Fresh Fish steak, over mashed and greens, with freshly baked bread and sparkling water. The starter course comprised crab sticks, prawn cocktail over a local sauce & a side of turnips. The chefs had combined local produce with warm spices, baked the food over a slow fire & served it fresh off the fire!
Afterward, my visit was complemented by a delightful stay at the Islay Hotel, an experience that should be on everyone’s list when visiting Islay. I savored a memorable evening, with dinner featuring a tayside pigeon tart accompanied by wild mushrooms, and a succulent fillet of seabass served with dark speckled lentils. To top it off, I concluded the evening with a heavenly toffee pudding, leaving my taste buds thoroughly satisfied.
Next morning saw me at Caol Ila, founded by Hector Henderson in 1846, which is the largest whisky producer on Islay, located near Port Askaig, responsible for the renowned Caol Ila Single Malt. This significant hub produces approximately 15% of the whisky as single malt, with the rest reserved for blends, making Caol Ila a major component of Johnnie Walker. The distillery offered a wide range of specialties of which I tried one of the cheeses – the connage dunlop which is traditionally made using pasteurized milk giving a mature cheddar. Apart from this, I tried the smoked duck which was moist and tender with a deep smoky flavour.
Next door, well almost, was Bunnahabhain, constructed in 1881, meaning ‘mouth of the river,’ was initially intended for blending. The distillery stores both peated and unpeated malts and has four pot stills, along with one of the largest mash tuns. Apart from blending, it produces some exceptional single malts and offers picturesque views from the Bunnahabhain visitor centre. I could not taste here since the Distillery was closed by the time I reached but we did taste Bunnahabhain Jack Weiber from the Auld Distiller collection and the Bunnahabhain 40yo – Gleann Mor which provided a balanced yet delectable experience with a fusion of flavors.
Next on the stop was Bruichladdich, meaning ‘corner of the beach’ or ‘gentle slope of the sea,’ was built in 1881 by the Harvey Brothers, Robert, William, and John Gourlay Harvey. The distillery now has three brands: Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte and Octomore, a heavily peated Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Maturation in various casks provides a wide range of flavors, aromas, and spices. Keeping in view the palate of Bruichladdich, I paired a few Desserts like the banana bread snack cakes and mini blueberry tarts with the whisky, all under a blue sky and on Port Charlotte.
I also visited Kilchoman, which is situated along the path to Islay and founded in 2005 by Anthony Wills, offers a diverse range of whiskies and an excellently planned visitor centre. It possesses two small malting floors and kilns that produce a medium-peated malt, which is blended with the heavily peated malt from Port Ellen. Islay’s only farm distillery has been gaining popularity among enthusiasts.
Ardnahoe, the newest distillery on Islay, draws its name from Scottish Gaelic, meaning ‘Height of the Hollow.’ This modern distillery, beautifully located on the rugged north eastern coast, adheres to traditional methods and values. It’s the first distillery for independent bottler Hunter Laing & Co., producing a spirit that is sweet, smoky, smooth, and yet peaty and spicy – a special addition to the Islay whisky landscape. Unfortunately, we couldn’t give the whisky a try as the distillery will wait for a minimum of 3 years for it to mature and release.
Islay was an experience wherein you can experience all four seasons in a single day, though it has its advantages and challenges for both residents and visitors. The peat-rich landscape is conducive to barley growth, the primary ingredient in whisky production. Distillers employ dried peat to smoke the barley, imparting a unique, smoky flavour. However, the unpredictable weather conditions can complicate barley harvesting, as grains struggle to adapt to severe terrain changes. Additionally, transporting ingredients to the island and moving grain trolleys across Islay, including ferry services, can be inefficient, given the constraints on truck movement and the state of the roads.,
Nevertheless, Islay’s whisky coast remains a promising destination for whisky enthusiasts amid a crowded landscape with legendary spirits. Drawing whisky directly from the cask, watching it twinkle and sparkle as it fills the glass, is one of life’s finest moments. This is where dreams become reality, and the future of Islay whisky unfolds. To the magnificent skies, powerful history, and bountiful whisky, I raise a toast!
